Japanese Tyranno Dance
Vaquera, Unkruid, Yohji, A.PRESSE, weekly picks, thoughts, dancing - we've got it all in today's post.
Outfit
In my previous post, I mentioned how Connor McKnight is one designer that’s often overlooked when it comes to menswear. Despite their FW24 collection selling well (everything on their website is sold out), they’ve yet to enter discussions regularly which is a shame considering how great their work has been over the past few years.
I’ve owned a few pieces by Mr. McKnight, but the one that always gets the most attention is the Rorschach Floral Work Jacket. On my first day, possibly second, in New York, I was stopped on the street by a street photographer that loved my jacket, and it made me feel fan-friggin’-tastic. I’m not one that wears very much colour, and this past year was one for the books as I fully embraced wearing all-black outfits more regularly, but this is one jacket, in a bright yellow, always leaves me feeling confident.
With the graphics being hand-painted, and the jacket itself being beautifully cropped, it’s got plenty of character and always sparks up conversations with any grandmas in the neighbourhood. Definitely need to wear this more.
What I’ve Been Loving
One of my objectives for the year is to strengthen my hat game, especially since my precious head, bald and all, gets quite chilly over the winter. I’ve been looking through past collections by a few designers, and after going through several, Yohji Yamamoto’s FW98 collection has officially been added to the moodboard. First, the looks remain relevant as ever, as people are continuing to care more about quality over quantity (see Vogue’s article about 2024’s top brands). It’s refreshing considering the damage left behind by Shein and Temu, but there’s still plenty of work to be done.
What really caught my attention in Yohji’s collection are these gorgeous hats, which only become more exaggerated after each look. The collection features plenty of knits, a few interesting colour choices (e.g. look 33), but what truly stands out are these hats - they could easily be used for a Tim Robinson skit in I Think You Should Leave.
What’s funny is the feeling I get after looking through these images. This sounds a little weird out of context, but what I’m feeling is a wave of nostalgia; wondering what the streets must have looked like when these collections first dropped.
(Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons, Calvin Klein and Louis Vuitton released stellar collections in 1998 that I will have saved on my phone for inspiration. LV’s show being Marc Jacobs’ debut, while Issey’s collection - stunning.)
If you don’t follow me on Instagram, you wouldn’t have seen the story I put up about how I’m eager to sell feet pics in exchange for either money, or anything by A.PRESSE. With a love for vintage craftsmanship, and the use of higher quality materials and textiles, the Japanese brand is picking up a lot of attention.
It’s clear how much Kazuma Shigematsu values his craft, as the garments I’ve had the pleasure of trying on are incredibly comfortable. For example, the Wool Skipper Shirt is, in all honesty, a simple shirt. However, if you had to pick one to purchase and own for life, I would have to recommend this one, no contest. Light and airy — it would make a worthy companion to any Comoli pieces you own. Drawing heavy inspiration from French styles and culture, and American as well, A.PRESSE is a brand absolutely worth looking into if you’re looking for elevated yet subtle design.
Unkruid, the Belgian brand that remains as well-kept secret in fashion, continues with their strong creative direction. The older I get, the more their ethos resonates with me, as I’ve been trying to appreciate those periods of silence and space throughout my life. The damage done by the ongoing overstimulation from social media isn’t irreparable, but it’s definitely noticeable how difficult it’s become to simply take the time to exist without the digital world (e.g. resting without scrolling through Tik Tok, posting regularly, etc).
There’s an existential feeling I get whenever discussing the brand, or even just visiting their website. Their clothing’s meant to age naturally, to change and evolve, to be lived in. On a personal level, it makes me think about how skewed our perspective on aging has become — especially in the “Substance” era of celebrity culture.
We take joy in wearing garments that mature gracefully over time, yet we often fail to extend that same appreciation to ourselves.
I’ve really enjoyed Vaquera’s playful approach to their collections, with pieces like their Lingerie Shirt that was quite popular this past year, or their Baby Jeans. The latter gives you a glimpse of Margiela’s influence on the brand, as it would fit perfectly in his SS94 collection “A Doll’s Wardrobe”.
I’m reaching the word limit for this post, but here’s a great interview by 032c featuring the dynamic duo behind the brand, Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee. I’m not too enthusiastic when it comes to internet-culture inspired brands like Vaquera, but their approach feels much more tasteful than others (e.g. Praying). There’s an artistic appeal to the brand which intrigues me.
One question I have, however, is how many more great New York brands will make the move from the Big Apple to Paris, or any other major fashion city, to continue growing their brand. NYFW, to a lot of people, has lost its lustre (this document goes over the many issues plaguing the city’s fashion business), so it leaves me wondering what the next few years will look like for brands, both old and new, with cities like Tokyo, Copenhagen, and Berlin gaining more traction.
Finally, Many Of Them is a publication I’ve been collecting for years. The abstract and, at times, abrasive nature of Many Of Them is one I’ve been trying to achieve since first venturing into the creative realm. There’s a brash and polished mix to their art direction, while their writing style is insightful and exceptionally nuanced, with a clear respect to their interviewees, and/or the subject matter they’re covering.
Brilliant, brilliant fashion photography in every issue.
Closing Notes
UGHhhHhh.
If you’ve seen The Matrix trilogy, you’ll remember a scene in the third film where Neo fights a swarm of Agent Smiths who just keep multiplying. Now apply this to the state of men’s fashion today, where a seemingly endless number of “fit” accounts are posting the same type of individual wearing the same trends and each account’s following ranges from 20K to 200K+; all echoing the same formula over and over.
This particular look, which accounts like Uniform Display seem to have handy in some bottomless pit of fit pics, remind me of going to your friend’s place and seeing food that’s clearly past its expiration date, yet they still choose to keep it in their cupboard, even though it’s rotten and expired. You know… the one that consists of a hoodie underneath either a bomber or denim jacket, with light-wash wide-legged jeans, and a variation of either the Bottega boots, Timbs, or whatever trendy sneaker (looking at you Puma). Pls, no more.
Now, I don’t see myself as someone with exceptional personal style, but for the love of god at least I try to do something different. The number of Tik Tok videos I’ll scroll past with text saying “brands you should follow - Acne Studios” - like, bitch, absolutely not. Andy Sachs, in a scathing post on the state of menswear today, mentions how “the algorithms and the piddling serotonin boosts we get from our daily three-plus hours of screen time on Tik Tok and Instagram have flattened taste and made personal style easily traceable.” We’ve reached the point where the most tasteless individuals sit at the tippy top; regurgitating the same “key tips” to elevate your wardrobe, adding to the number of Agent Smith clones out there.
Individuality is lacking. Even with the number of resources available to develop your own personal style, people still choose to take the blue pill and keep to their “starter pack” wardrobe. It’s great that Tik Tok and Instagram has offered a sort of stepping stone into fashion by making easily accessible content, but it’s like someone yanked the rest of the goddamn stones and left people fuckin’ stranded at step one.
Anyway, that’s it. RIP Y/Project, you deserved better.
Weekly Picks
A.PRESSE
1st Type Denim Jacket
$1,370CAD
ssstein
Twist Seam Wide Easy Trousers
$640CAD
Cos
Cashmere Polo Jumper
$450CAD
Marina Yee
Black Origami Blazer
$1,125CAD
Y/Project
Intertwined Sweater
$369CAD
Hed Mayner
Black Patch Pocket Denim Shirt
$481CAD
ssstein
Extra Fine Wool Knit Skipper
$580CAD
Comoli
Stripe Linen Shirt
$360CAD
Yohji Yamamoto
Eyes Long Sleeve Shirt
$390CAD
Jan-Jan Van Essche
Wide Corduroy Jacket (lovely)
$925CAD
Herill
Cotton Cashmere Regular Collar Shirt
$659CAD
Stein
Padded Coach Jacket
$1,211CAD
pet-tree-kor
Blue Resonance Pleat Shirt
$341CAD
Auralee
AW19 Jacket (idk name)
$1,804CAD
Y’s For Men (Red Label)
90’s Chore Jacket
$224.81CAD
Simone Rocha
Black Layered Ruffle Long Sleeve
$735CAD
Willy Chavarria
Black Santee Alley Jeans
$744CAD
Lemaire
Black Boxy Rain Coat
$1,895CAD
Phoebe Philo
Upright-Collar Shirt with Pocket
$1,408CAD
Issey Miyake
AW01 Leather Overcoat (crazy)
$620CAD
Namacheko
Axan Cardigan
$1,000CAD
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals within the fashion realm, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week - who knows.
My only ask is if you can please like, subscribe and share this post if you found it helpful, fun, or if it just helped pass the time tbh.
As always, thank you for your support. Love ya.
- Chris
No notes for your closing notes 👏🏼